Just beyond Dhammayangyi temple stands the red-brick Sulamani Temple. It was bulit in 1174 by King Narapatishithu, a son of King Narathu, again no doubt as an atonement. One enters the temple precincts up a brick mounting - block and through a gateway in the surrounding brick wall. The light inside is particularly striking: the sun's rays shine through the outer arches onto the central core, radiating a soft terracotta glow. The walls are decorated by murals dating from the 12th to 19th centuries. All but those on the south have been badly damaged by the weather due to the vaulted openings along the outer walls. Those on the south side depict 17th century life in Bagan.
On the eastern side in recess is a huge seated Buddha, larger than those at the other cardinal points, as the eastern entrance is reserved for royalty. The vaulted stairways to the terrace are glossy, again lit by the 'terracotta' light.
The Sulamani Temple is a favourite haunt of hawkers selling antiques; take particular care before buying any of the gems offered and in all cases bargain determinedly.